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Collector: footbinding forerunner to fashion
收藏家:纏足是時尚的先導

AFP/File - A footbinding model seen in Tucheng. A Taiwanese doctor who collects artefacts of the ancient Chinese ... 
by Amber Wang Amber Wang - Thu Jun 4, 1:25 am ET
AFP/File ──一位收集中國古代纏足文物的台灣醫生... Amber Wang -星期四6月4日,1:25上午东部時間

    TAIPEI (AFP) - A Taiwanese doctor who collects artefacts of the ancient Chinese practice of footbinding has drawn criticism from feminists who say he is romanticising a tradition that suppressed women for a thousand years.
台北(AFP)──一位收集中國古代纏足文物的台灣醫生 台北(法新社)一些女權主義者對此持有異議,說他将壓迫婦女一千年的傳統浪漫化了。

    David Ko has spent the past 30 years collecting the tiny colourful shoes that Chinese women wore during the 1,000 years they were forced to have their feet broken and bent in half for the sake of fashion, beauty and sex.
    大卫·柯(柯基生)花了30年時間来收集色彩繽紛的繡花弓鞋。为了追求時尚和性感,中國婦女在過去的1000年中,不得不將自己的脚纏裹到原來的一半大小,来穿這种小的繡花鞋。

    He insists the practice -- which inflicted a lifetime of pain -- was a romantic fashion that continues to inspire modern trends.
    他認爲,造成婦女終生痛苦的纏足,在當時是一种浪漫的流行时尚,并且啓發了現代的流行趨勢。

    "I think of footbinding as a form of fashion in ancient China, with the lavishly embroidered shoes and accessories," he told AFP, calling the results "sexy".
    “我認爲,缠足是中國古代的一种时尚形式,它包含了奢侈的繡花鞋及其附件。”他这样告诉法新社,并称缠足含有“性感”的意味。

    "The French and Italians debate about who invented high-heeled shoes but I believe they originated in China to support women with bound feet," he said.
    他说,“法國人和意大利人一直在争論谁是高跟鞋的發明者,但我相信,高跟鞋源于鼓勵女性纏足的中国。”

    To promote his ideas about footbinding Ko has published three books on the topic and has exhibited 
some of his vast collection in Taiwan, China, Canada and at the National Museum of Natural History in Washington.
爲了推廣他的觀點,柯基生出版了三本有关缠足的書籍。并在台灣,大陸,加拿大,以及華盛顿的美國國家自然歷史博物館展出他的部分繡鞋收藏品。

    Perhaps not surprisingly he has also drawn criticism from some women who regard his fascination as something of a sick fetish, and see the binding of girls' feet as little less than torture and the perhaps the most extreme example of a fashion fad.
    一些視缠足爲恋物癖的女性对此的微詞也许并不奇怪。她們認爲女孩子將脚裹起来不只是痛苦,或許是流行時尚里最极端的例子。

    "I agree that footbinding should be preserved like any piece of history but it's flimsy to promote it as a beauty and fashion concept in our time," said Wang Ping, secretary-general of Taiwan's Gender/Sexuality Rights Association.
    “我同意纏足應該像其他歷史文化一样受到關切,但很難把它作为一種美和時尚的概念去推廣。”台灣性别/人權協會秘長王平如是說。

    "Footbinding limited women's movements to satisfy men's desires in a patriarchal society when women didn't have an equal status.
    “在家長制社會,婦女没有平等的地位。而纏足限制了婦女的行動,满足了男人的欲望。”

    "This notion of beauty was based on suppression," she said.
    “这种概念上的美,建立在對女性的壓迫上。”她说道。

    The practice, which deformed women's feet into a shape known as a "three-inch lotus," endured until early last century, when the imperial era ended and China became a republic.
    纏足使女性的脚变形,成爲“三寸金蓮”,这種行爲一直延續到上個世紀,直到中國皇權时代结束建立共和國。

    It was only completely eradicated after the civil war victory of the communists in 1949, yet even today, elderly women in remote areas of the country such as southwestern Yunnan province can still be seen tottering painfully on bound feet.
事實上,在1949年内戰結束、共産黨人勝利後,纏足才徹底消失。即使是今天,在中國的邊遠地區,比如雲南省的西南地區,還能看到有着一双小脚、步履蹒跚的年邁女性。

    Ko has 5,000 pairs of the tiny shoes worn by women with bound feet. Many of them are delicately embroidered as they were meant to attract attention to what was the main female erogenous zone -- and the smaller a women's feet, the more beautiful, and marriageable, she was considered.
    柯基生有5000双繡花小鞋。其中很多都繡有精美的圖案,這是使女性身体更具吸引力的性感帶,当时普遍認爲女性的脚越小越美麗。

    He also has around 10,000 accessories, including stockings, buckles, cases, drawings and shoe-shaped wine glasses, all carefully stored in his private hospital in Taipei county.
    他還有大约上萬件的“三寸金蓮”附件,其中包括長襪,襻扣,矾粉盒,金蓮古画,鞋杯,都精心珍藏在他在台北縣的私人医院。






   For his books he interviewed 300 elderly women who had their feet bound as children, and describes 
the practice as a "cultural legacy" and an inspiration for modern fashion.
    为了完成他的著作,他采访了300个从儿时就缠足的年迈婦女,并把缠足称爲“文化遗产”和现代時尚的灵感来源。

    Ko said that contrary to the generally negative view of footbinding among scholars and historians, he wants it to be seen more positively, as an important aspect of China's cultural heritage.
    柯基生的觀點有別於对纏足普遍持有消极看法的學者和歷史學家,他說,纏足可以更積极的被看做是中國文化遗産中重要的一面。

    He backs his claim that the three-inch shoes are the prototype of latter-day high heels by pointing to the tiny platforms sewn to the heels of many pairs in his collection.
    他又回到他所坚持的觀點,并指着许多在鞋跟处綴有小木底的繡鞋收藏品,重申三寸金蓮鞋是当今高跟鞋的原始范例。

    "I still remember when I first saw a woman with bound feet when I was six years old, I was fascinated by how small her feet were," said the 54-year-old surgeon. 
    “我始终記得,當我第一次看到一位纏足的女性时,我只有六歲。我惊訝她的脚怎么那麽小。”54岁的柯基生醫生說道。

    That fascination eventually inspired him to create what must be one of the most extensive collections of "lotus" paraphernalia and become one of the foremost experts on the subject. 
    這最終促使他收藏了大量有关“金蓮”的文物,并成为这个领域的最重要的專家之一。

    "I would probably have become a historian if it weren't for financial and family reasons," said Ko, who was raised in a family of doctors. 
    “如果不是經濟和家庭的原因,我有可能成爲一个歷史學家。”成長於醫生家庭的柯基生说道。

    Theories on the origin of footbinding vary, but it is generally believed that small feet became fashionable around the 10th century, after an emperor admired the tiny feet of a dancer who performed for him with colourful ribbons tied around her ankles. 
    关于缠足起源的學說各不相同,但人們普遍認爲,小脚的流行是在10世纪左右。一个脚踝上缠着彩带的宫女在跳舞時,她的小脚深为皇帝喜爱。

    Over the years, footbinding became a symbol of beauty, grace and class, and as the practice became universal, writers and poets eulogised the "golden lotus," and broken and bound feet became the symbol of female sexuality. 
    多年來,小脚成了美麗优雅高貴的標志,並且成爲時尚,文人墨客赞赏它为“金蓮”,從而使纏足成爲女性性感的象征。

    Eventually, bound feet became so normal that without them a woman could not marry. They were never shown to any male except a husband or lover. 
最後,纏足變得如此尋常,以至于没有纏足的女性不能够结婚。但是女性的小脚除了丈夫和爱人,是不能给其他男性看的。

    Usually a girl was subject to the painful ritual from early childhood when her feet were literally bent in half -- often by her mother or another female relative. 
    一个女孩在兒时就要服从这种疼痛的儀式,把自己的脚纏到原來的一半大小。而通常,纏足这項工作是由她的母親,或是家中的女性亲屬来完成的。

    They were then wrapped in long strips of cloth -- which themselves became fetishised -- ensuring a life of agony and high maintenance. Because the rotting flesh stank, the feet were powdered to mask the smell. 
    脚被裹在長長的裹脚布裡(裹脚布也成了戀足者喜歡的物品),每天忍受痛苦还要進行維護。如果脚上的肉腐烂发臭,就要在脚上涂矾粉来遮盖气味。

    Yet so erotic were the feet considered that men were known to eat crushed almonds and even sip wine from between the deformed toes, and the sight of the bindings was said to be enough to stir libidinous passions. 
    這樣的小脚是充满性欲的。据說男性喜難把碎杏仁夹在小脚中品尝,甚至从脚趾間吸取美酒。而小脚可以挑起性欲。

    "The richer a woman was the smaller her feet were bound, and for some matchmakers their first question was about the size of the feet of prospective brides," Ko said. 
    “越是富有的女性脚就纏得越小。对于媒人而言,她们第一个要問的就是准新娘脚的大小。”柯基生说。

    While footbinding forced women to walk in an unnatural way, tottering from side to side as they struggled to maintain balance, Ko said he believes it made them more attractive and sexy. 
    缠足使婦女以不自然的方式行走,左右蹒跚,因此她們要竭力保持平衡。柯基生說,这樣會使纏足的女性看起来更加性感迷人。

    Indeed, he compares lotus feet to the tightly-laced corsets popular in Western Europe during the 18th century -- despite the fact that Western women chose as adults to wear the corsets, whereas Chinese women had their feet mutilated as children.
    他将“三寸金蓮”与18世纪流行于西方歐洲的束腰(穿緊身衣)進行对比,不同的是,西方女性成人之后才束腰,而中國女性在孩提时代就開始纏足了。


[台北(法新社)2009年6月4日報道]

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